#6: Chenin Blanc. A beautiful and versatile white wine from the Loire that kills in South Africa

Drink
Written By Kris MILLER
A chart summarizing the aromas, flavors, and other data that define Chenin Blanc

TASTING NOTE

This note will focus on a classic style of Chenin Blanc that would most likely appear on a formal blind tasting examination. The objective is to identify standard typicity of a youthful, lean, dry Chenin Blanc from the Loire Valley or South Africa. 

In the Distinctions section I will note variations for Chenin Blanc, which are numerous given Chenin’s versatility as a sparkling, dry, semi-sweet, and sweet wine.

APPEARANCE

Clarity

Clear

Intensity

Medium intensity and concentration

Color

Lemon green to medium lemon (please note that other styles of Chenin can achieve gold and pale amber)

Other Observations

None

AROMAS ON THE NOSE

Aroma Intensity

Medium to medium plus intensity of aromas

Aroma Characteristics

Tells

Camomile, honey, wet wool or lanolin

Primary Aromas

Tree fruits: ripe quince, yellow apple, fresh pear

Flowers: honeysuckle, jasmin, white flowers

Herbal: camomile

Other: honey, wet wool, or fresh sheets on a line

Secondary Aromas

Yeast, biscuit, bread, dough, or brioche if aged on the lees

Tertiary Aromas

Aroma Development

Youthful (for blind tasting Chenin Blanc)

PALATE & STRUCTURE

Sweetness is dry to off-dry

Acidity is high

Tannin: n/a

Alcohol is medium

Body is medium-minus

Mouse: n/a

Flavor intensity is medium plus

Flavor characteristics reflect the nose - ripe tree fruits, flowery camomile, honey, but always with piercing acidity

Finish is medium to medium plus

DISTINCTIONS FOR BLIND TASTING

France

Anjou: crisp and youthful. Predominant aromas of green apple, lemon, and white flowers; acidity and minerality are high.

Vouvray: rich and full-bodied off-dry (demi-sec) to sweet wines. Predominant flavors include honey, ripe quince and pear. Luxurious body balanced with solid acidity.

Savennières: oak-aged, creating complex wines with primary aromas of savory baked apple, hazelnut, and beeswax. You will find a strong mineral character as well. These wines have aging potential for several decades.

Coteaux du Layon, Bonnezeaux, and Quarts de Chaume are known for sweet wines. They are often botrytis-affected wines with flavors of honeycomb, candied lemon, and over-ripe apricot. The luscious richness finds an equal counterpoint with racy, bright acidity.

Saumur and other Loire Regions: sparkling wines (Crémant de Loire). Traditional method sparkling wines offer aromas and flavors of green apple, citrus, and brioche. As always, the acidity is elevated, and the bubbles are very fine.

South Africa

Elgin and Walker Bay: These are cool coastal regions that produce racy, crisp and refreshing Chenin Blanc. Primary aromas include fresh green apple, pear, and citrus flavors with high acidity.

Swartland and Paarl: These warmer regions produce richer, more full-bodied wines. Look for tropical aromas and flavors like ripe peach, apricot, and fragrant mango.

Stellenbosch and Franschhoek are known for oak-aged Chenin Blancs. Primary aromas include baked apple, caramel, and warm butter. You’ll also find oak influences like toast and vanilla.

Constantia is famous for sweet wines, beloved by Napoleon Bonapart, of all people. These wines feature ripe apricot, candied orange peel, and fig flavors. Again, sweet richness is balanced with vibrant acidity.

Stellenbosch, Franschhoek, and Robertson produce Cap Classique, South Africa’s flagship sparkling wine. These Chenin Blancs deliver aromas and flavors of green apple, lemon, and subtle brioche and yeast notes. Great acidity and very fine bubbles.

HISTORY

PARENTS

Parent is Sauvignin and another unknown grape.

Its siblings include Trousseau and Sauvignon Blanc.

It is an aunt/uncle to Cabernet Sauvignon.

OFFSPRING

Crossed with Gouais Blanc it produced Balzac Blanc, Colombard, and Meslier-Saint-François.

In South Africa, Chenin Blanc was crossed with Trebbiano to produce Weldra and Chenel.

ORIGIN

Anjou, Loire Valley, France.

The earliest surviving writing about Chenin Blanc is from 1534, though some believe records may indicate it was grown as early as the 9th Century CE.

In the 1650s, Chenin Blanc made its way to South Africa and to Jan van Riebeek, who was colonial administrator of the Dutch East India Company. It wasn’t until 1965 that Steen was identified as Chenin Blanc. 

PSEUDONYMS

France: Vouvray; Côteaux du Layon; Pineau de la Loire; Pineau d'Anjou; In the Loire Valley: simply Pineau; Chenin Blanc has many other names in various regions of France (too many to list here).

South Africa: Steen 

South America: Pinot Bianco

Spain: Agudelo or Agudillo

NAME

Chenin Blanc earns its name from Mont-Chenin in Touraine.

VITICULTURE

GRAPE CHARACTERISTICS

Thick skinned; early budding and bud-break. Ripens middly-to-late in the season.

Threats include gray rot a.k.a. botrytis, spring frosts, powdery mildew (Oidium), and other fungal diseases (phomopsis cane and leaf spot).

Chenic Blanc is resistant to downy mildew.

Threats can be mitigated with integrated pest management (IPM) and rootstock selection.

Chenin Blanc is a vigorous vine that loses its unique character when it is harvested with too high a yield. In the Loire, yields are capped at 40-50 hectoliters per hectare. In warmer climates, the vine can produce 240 hl/ha. Mitigations include grafting Chenin Blanc on less vigorous rootstock and performing a “green” harvest to reduce the number of grape clusters.

CLIMATE

Cool to warm, exemplified by the cool Loire Valley in France and warmer climates in South Africa and the United States.

PREFERRED SOILS

  • Calcareous clay soils, like in Vouvray, are ideal for more well rounded wines with both weight and high acidity, especially when aged on the lees.

    • Classic soil type in Touraine: Tuffeau (a white, calcareous stone used in many Chanteaux of the Loire)

  • Heavy, clay-based soils are favorable for producing thicker, botrytized dessert wines

  • Well-drained sandy soils are favorable for fresh, light, and dry styles

  • Silex soils produce more mineral-driven flavors in Chenin Blanc

  • Limestone and Schist-based soils highlight Chenin’s acidity

LOCATIONS OF PRODUCTION

South Africa: 44,000 acres (18,000 hectares)

France: 23,500 acres (9,500 hectares)

Argentina: 5,500 acres (2,200 hectares)

USA: 4,900 acres (2,000 hectares)

Thus, South Africa is responsible for more than half of all Chenin Blanc production.

WINEMAKING

STANDARD TECHNIQUES

In her Oxford Companion to Wine, famous wine writer Jancis Robinson states that Chenin Blanc is France's answer to Riesling, meaning that Chenin is one of the most versatile grape varieties on earth. Winemakers produce sparkling wines, dry and off-dry table wines, and sweet desert wines.

Chenin is prone to botrytis, which is helpful for making those delectably honeyed sweet dessert wines. And its acidity is a tremendous asset for making ageworthy bottles.

As such, winemakers execute all manner of techniques. Stainless steel tanks for crisp dry wines, oak barrels and lees aging for richer and creamier expressions, traditional champenoise techniques for sparkling wine, and fortification for sweet wines.

BLENDING PARTNERS

Chenin Blanc is usually offered as a single varietal.

But when it is blended, often for bulk wines, it is partnered with Chardonnay, Colombard, or Sauvignon Blanc

EXCELLENT VINTAGES

Loire Valley: 2020, 2018 (legendary), 2015 (legendary), 2010, 2009, 2008, 2005 (legendary)

South Africa: Excellent in 2021, 2020, 2019, 2018, 2017, 2015, 2012, 2009 (legendary), 2007, 2006, 2005, 2004

SERVICE AND FOOD PAIRING

SERVING TEMPERATURE

7-12°Celsius, 45–55°Fahrenheit

Do not decant

Cellar 10+ years for age worthy wines (e.g., oak aged and sweet wines); otherwise drink most crisp, dry Chenins in their youth, 1-3 years

GLASSWARE

Standard white wine glass

FOOD PAIRINGS

Lighter styles of Chenin Blanc pairs well with foods that have a sweet and sour component, so think of cuisine from SE Asia. It is interesting to pair spicier dishes with an off-dry Chenin. Dry Chenin with high acidity is a nice complement to savory pork dishes with apples.

Medium to fuller bodied Chenin pairs well with chicken, patés and terrines, as well as salads. Consider these as a potential replacement for Chardonnay.

Sweet Chenins can complement an array of desserts and creamy cheeses.

Sparkling Chenin can be enjoyed solo or with nearly anything - it’s sparkling wine.

PRODUCERS TO KNOW

CHAPTER TIMESTAMPS

00:00 Introduction

00:50 Tasting Note

01:18 Appearance

01:38 Aromas

02:37 Palate and Structure

05:34 History

08:08 Viticulture

10:24 Winemaking

12:00 Service and Food Pairing

13:08 Producers to Know

SOURCES

Kris MILLER
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