Geek Wines: A Guide to Wine History, Grape Varieties, Appellations, Producers, and Pairings

Drink
Written By Kris MILLER

#TLDR

  • Greek wine is delicious and inspiring, and we should be drinking more of it.

  • Greek wine is a great value. Since the 1980s, sustainable viticulture and modern vinification techniques are producing wines that compete well against more celebrated European regions, but Greece’s lack of notoriety affords winelovers the benefit of lower market prices.

  • Greece has one of the world’s oldest and most captivating wine cultures. Thank you Dionysus!

  • Greece has 33 Protected Designation of Origin (PDO / ΠΟΠ) and over 100 Protected Geographical Indication (PGI / ΠΓΕ) appellations. Awareness is growing in large wine-consuming markets such as the US, UK, Germany, and Scandinavia (think PDO Santorini, thanks to tourism), but several still relatively unknown appellations produce wines of equal or greater quality.

  • The Mediterranean climate, mountainous terrain, diverse soils, and over 300 indigenous varieties make Greece’s wine regions beautiful and captivating to explore.

  • Greek wine is food-friendly - fish, shellfish, barbeque, lamb, pork, chicken, greens, cheeses, deserts - there is a delicious Greek wine for every meal and occasion.

  • Greek wines have a very bright future - which means you should catch the wave now.

Fine dining with a bottle of Xinomavro sparkling wine overlooking the Saronic Gulf

Fine dining with a bottle of sparkling Xinomavro wine overlooking the Saronic Gulf

Introduction

Greek wines are stunning, just like the landscapes and the sunsets. We should all be drinking more of them. The reasons are simple: they are delicious; they are extremely food friendly; and their lower profile compared to other European producers make them a great value. For now.

Greeks have been enjoying and perfecting wine for millenia. In Greek mythology, Dionysus (Bacchus) gifted wine to mortals - a big thank you for that. Dionysus was the Greek god of winemaking, orchards and fruit, vegetation, fertility, festivities, insanity, ritual madness, religious ecstasy, and theater. He had many names, but boring was not one.

Contemporary Greek wines are for everyone - casual drinkers will appreciate their freshness and easy drinkability; sommeliers and connoisseurs love unique indigenous Greek varieties for their complexity and uniqueness.

In sum, the Greek wines punch above their weight class. At some point they will be discovered in larger markets, which will be terrific for the passionate Greek farmers and producers that craft them. It will be my honor to eventually pay higher prices. The Greeks deserve it.

The following article provides an overview of Greek wine history, wine regions, grape varieties, legal appellations, recommended producers, and suggested pairings. I hope it inspires you to try something new.

An interactive map of the regions, PDO and PGI appellations, and recommended producers of Greek wines.

History

Vineyards at the foot of the Temple of Zeus in Ancient Nemea, Peloponnesus

Vineyards at the foot of the Temple of Zeus in Ancient Nemea, Peloponnesus

Greek history was always turbulent, even during the Classic Age (6th and 5th Centuries BCE) when art, architecture, and culture were at their peak. Subsequent occupations by Romans, Byzantines, Venetians, Brits and Ottomans left their own enduring legacies. 

Wine was always produced in Greece, even during the Ottoman period (1453 to 1821) when the torch was carried by Christian orthodox monasteries and remote villages. After Greek independence in 1821, wine production remained small and local. To its benefit, Greece was spared the pain of having a large bulk wine industry that tainted its image (Languedoc-Roussillon, for example?). 

But up to the late 20th Century, and even today unfortunately, the only thing most people outside of Greece conceived about Greek wine was Retsina, a simple production usually of Savvatiano and/or Rhoditis grapes flavored with Aleppo pine resin. This ancient tradition preserved wine and made it possible to transport it in clay amphorae around the Mediterranean for centuries. Retsina culture is still vibrant, and both basic and more sophisticated examples continue to be produced. 

But finally in the 1980s, about the same time Greece joined the European Union (EU), fine quality wines were explored in earnest. Over the last 40 years, young and energetic farmers and vintners have embraced modern winemaking best practices. Many international varieties are grown to attract a more global market, which has its own value, but many of the more than 300 indigenous varieties are also being rediscovered and explored, which is enticing. Greece now offers many exceptional wines for export, and Greece’s native varieties are catching the attention of sommeliers, connoisseurs, and the man riding the Clapham omnibus (read: Joe).

Origins

Wine grape cultivation is thought to have started around 8,000 BCE in Turkey, Iran, and Georgia (the Fertile Triangle). It spread to the Levant and Egypt, but the Greeks perfected it, democratized it, and built a culture around it. 

Ancient Greeks had an intimate bond with wine, dating back some 6,500 years to the Neolithic era. The oldest evidence of winemaking in Europe was unearthed in northern Greece, with seeds, skins, and vines preserved from the dawn of civilization. Wine reached Crete and the Minoan civilization around 2200 to 2000 BCE. And from there these seafaring people spread it to the mainland and beyond.

In classical antiquity, the Greeks viewed wine as an integral part of their diet, an essential companion to their meals. Their philosophical minds pioneered the art of wine-drinking, pairing it with intellectual discourse in symposia - convivial gatherings where ideas flowed as freely as the nectar of the gods. All the philosophers thought more clearly with a cup of Agiorgitiko. 

Moderation

Despite the perceptions we may have of raging Roman Bacchanalia, the Greeks understood and largely practiced the principle of moderation. Wine was usually diluted with water - usually one part wine and three parts water, or two parts wine and three parts water for a little more richness - as well as with other flavors like flower oils. 

To illustrate the Greek penchant for moderation, wine experts cite the Greek poet Eubulus, who explained the different states that occur with consuming each small bowl of wine:

“Three bowls do I mix for the temperate: 
One to health which they empty first,
The second to love,
The third to sleep.
When this bowl is drunk up, wise guests go home.
The fourth bowl is ours no longer, but belongs to violence,
The fifth to uproar,
The sixth to drunken revel,
The seventh to black eyes,
The eighth is the policeman’s,
The ninth belongs to biliousness [indigestion, flatulence, and vomiting],
And the tenth to madness and hurling the furniture.”
— Eubulus

The etymology of the contemporary Greek word for wine, “krasi”, is derived from the ancient term “kekramenos”, which is the practice of diluting wine with water.

Terroir

Sunrise over the vineyards of PGI Meteora, UNESCO World Heritage Site

Sunrise over the vineyards of PGI Meteora, UNESCO World Heritage Site

Greek wines are strongly influenced by its geography, climate, and traditions. Greece is a mostly mountainous country with diverse soils, aspects (direction facing the sun), inclinations (steepness), elevations, and other environmental influences that shape its viticulture. 

Generally, Greece has a warm Mediterranean climate, which is cooled by both northerly winds and the seas on the arid, coastal lowlands.

Mountains

In mountainous and semi-mountainous areas, like Noussa and Amyndeon in Macedonia, vines planted at elevation present higher acidity and energy. But even though the same grape variety - Xinomavro - is produced here, the wines are differentiated by the weight and makeup of their soils; Naoussa produces richer and more tannic expressions of Xinomavro, whereas Amyndeon is cooler and has lighter soils that produce a fresher, more floral expression.

Coast

Hot, arid coastal areas are cooled by the sea and the northerly Meltemi summer winds. The wines often express minerality and salinity.

Continental

Although most of Greece enjoys a Mediterranean climate, there is some continental influence in the region of Epirus, which is shielded from humidity by the Pindos Mountains.

Volcanic

Finally, volcanic soils, especially on islands like Santorini, support extraordinarily old vines that are immune to pests like phylloxera (a devastating root-eating louse) because of their exceptional drainage. Centuries of lava, pumice, and ash deposits create truly unique wines.

Artisanal Wines

Typical Kouloura basket training system in PDO Santorini, Aegean Islands

Typical Kouloura basket training system in PDO Santorini, Aegean Islands

Greece is dominated by small, artisanal, family-run wineries. Greece, fortunately, lacks a history of large, industrial wine manufacturing. Production volumes are small compared to large European wine producing countries. Human hands, experience, and ingenuity are ingrained in the process. And in the past few decades, Greek farmers and vintners have found notable success combining traditional manual practices with modern technology. Three quick examples follow. 

Kouloura

First, Assyrtiko vines on Santorini are still trained in the basket or nest shaped “Kouloura.” This unique ancient training system protects flowering vines from the intense winds and volcanic dust, shields grapes from the intense sun, and preserves moisture. Grapes are picked very early in the morning, when the grapes are at their coolest. And once they arrive at the vineyard to be processed, modern temperature-controlled stainless steel fermenters are on hand to ensure the transformation from sweet juice to delicious wine progresses perfectly.

LYRE System

Second, in Nemea, growers have adopted a stem walled training technique called the LYRE system. The LYRE system is effective in temperate climates like Nemea because it naturally slows the vigor of the vines. This subsequently reduces average bunch size by 50% without reducing the yield per acre/hectare. This vine training technique also increases sun exposure to the grapes on the stem wall and improves the biological balance of the plant. Growers are continuously applying research, science and technology to perfect this technique.

Partial Malolactic Fermentation Before Alcoholic Fermentation

Third, some winemakers have embraced research by the Agricultural University of Athens by not sulfating the grape pulp, which results in partial malolactic fermentation prior to alcoholic fermentation. The decision to begin alcoholic fermentation is guided by the closely measured acid profile of the grape pulp during malolactic fermentation. This result is a rich, aromatically intense, and highly complex red wine - in this case, delicious expressions of Agiorgitiko.

As Greek family vineyards embraced fine wine-making in the 1980s and 90s, the younger generation went abroad to study in France, Germany, Italy, and the USA. The skill and creativity Greece’s current generation are demonstrating is truly impressive. 

Value

Greek wines do not yet command extremely high prices. Few bottles can be found for more than €60/$67 each. Most excellent quality producers sell their best wines in the €30/$33 to €45/$50 range. 

Again, this is not a reflection of lower quality. Instead, this reflects on the fact that Greek wines do not yet possess the brand chaché of fine wines from France, Italy, and other large traditional European markets. 

Moreover, prices also reflect consistent demand from within Greece. Locals still want to drink their own wines, and incomes in Greece remain below the average incomes in western Europe. 

Finally, as stated previously, total wine production by volume is low compared to larger markets; it is doubtful that Greece will ever produce millions of bottles per year. Thus, it remains more challenging to create a broader range of quality levels that support the sale of very expensive, ultra-high premium wines.

WINE REGIONS

Greece is divided into the following nine (9) wine regions: Aegean Islands, Central Greece, Crete, Eprius, Ionian Islands, Macedonia, Peloponnese, Thessaly, and Thrace. Let’s cover some highlights from each.

1. Aegean Islands

Two glasses of Assyrtiko perched above the caldera in Santorini, Greece

Two glasses of Assyrtiko perched above the caldera in Santorini, Greece

In the ethereal landscape of Greece's Aegean Islands, enjoy the harmony between the human hand and nature that speaks volumes of its enduring viticultural tradition. This archipelago, scattered in the azure embrace of the Aegean Sea, is a captivating tableau of ancient volcanic soils, briny sea breezes, and an array of indigenous grape varieties that yield a fascinating palette of wines, whether sparking, dry, or sweet.

PDO Santorini

Santorini, the most acclaimed island in the Aegean for wine, and iti offers a singular terroir born of volcanic eruptions that occurred over 3,600 years ago. This dramatic past has gifted Santorini with ashy, mineral-rich soils, a factor that contributes greatly to the characteristic profile of its wines. Here, the native white grape variety Assyrtiko reigns supreme, sculpted by the powerful Meltemi winds and the arid climate into a wine of high acidity, marked minerality, and an invigorating salinity. It is also important to note the unique Santorini viticultural technique of training the vines in a basket or nest shape, known as "kouloura," to protect the grapes from the wind and conserve precious moisture.

PDO Samos

Samos, farther to the northeast, presents a contrasting viticultural picture. The island's steep, terraced vineyards, which soar up to 900 meters above sea level, benefit from the tempering sea breezes and the varying altitudes. Here, Muscat of Samos, a delightful, aromatic white grape, yields an impressive range of wine styles, from bone-dry to lusciously sweet Vin Doux Naturel, all with a perfumed bouquet of orange blossom, ripe stone fruits, and honey.

PDO Limnos

To the north lies the island of Limnos, celebrated for its golden Limnio grape. One of the oldest documented grape varieties, Limnio produces elegant red wines with a balance of bright red fruit, soft tannins, and pleasing acidity. Meanwhile, the white Muscat of Alexandria prospers in Limnos's volcanic soils, yielding intensely aromatic wines with notes of exotic fruits and flowers.

PDO Paros and PDO Rhodes

The Aegean also includes smaller islands, like Paros and Rhodes, each with their unique grape varieties and styles. Paros is recognized for its Monemvasia and Mandilaria grapes, used to produce both refreshing whites and robust reds. Rhodes, blessed with a sunny and mild climate, has shown exceptional promise with both native varieties like Athiri and Amorgiano, and international varieties such as Syrah and Grenache.

Notable Producers

Summary

What unites these islands, beyond their shared maritime geography, is their tenacious grip on tradition, balanced by an inspiring, forward-thinking attitude. The Aegean Islands have shown resilience in the face of adversity, maintaining the health of their ancient vines and championing sustainable practices in the era of climate change.

In essence, the Aegean Islands are a testament to the symbiotic relationship between humans and nature. They illustrate a narrative of endurance, innovation, and dedication to quality that is not only compelling but deeply inspiring for the global wine community. Here, in the ancient cradle of viticulture, the roots of winemaking continue to delve deep into the past while simultaneously reaching out towards the future.

2. Central Greece

Bud break on an old vine in Attica, Central Greece

Bud break on an old vine in Attika, Central Greece

The Central Greece region is a viticultural tapestry stitched by the hands of time, history, and human ingenuity. One can hardly imagine a more harmonious blend of topographical diversity, ancient tradition, and modern ambition. It’s a region with its roots firmly in history, yet with a gaze intently fixed on the future.

The patchwork of climates and terrains found in Central Greece fosters a mesmerizing array of grape varieties, and thus, wine styles. It is the contrast of the coastal plains with the cool, lofty heights of the Parnassus Mountains that facilitates this wealth of viticultural expressions.

Attica

Attica, with its sun-baked, rolling landscapes, presents us with the Savatiano grape. Long the workhorse of the Retsina wine style, Savatiano is now experiencing a renaissance. Today, contemporary winemakers, while retaining the grape's inherent resilience and sun-loving nature, are coaxing out wines of more precision, character, and elegance than ever before.

Evia

Evia, an enchanting island, harbors the aromatic Malagousia grape, a phoenix rising from near extinction. With its refreshing acidity, and perfumed notes of citrus and peach, Malagousia wines are as captivating as they are enjoyable.

Notable Producers

Summary

Central Greece, in essence, embodies the captivating narrative of Greek wine. Each vineyard, each bottle, each glass tells a story of the past, reflects the innovation of the present, and hints at the potential of the future. Here, history is poured into our glasses, tradition savored on our tongues, and the future is as promising as the next vineyard over the hill. These wines are a testament to the enduring power of terroir and the transformative magic of skilled winemakers guided by passion, expertise, and respect for the vines.

3. Crete

Used barrels stacked at the Old Venetian port of Chania in Crete

Used barrels stacked at the Old Venetian port of Chania in Crete

In the vast expanse of the Mediterranean, Greece’s largest island, Crete, stands as a steadfast sentinel, a land deeply woven into the tapestry of viticulture history. The island’s legacy in wine, rich as its vibrant soils, harks back to the Minoan civilization (3500-1100 BCE), making Crete one of the oldest wine-producing regions in the world. Yet, like a dynamic dialogue between past and future, Crete is not bound by its history, but instead, revitalized by it. The essence of Crete is an intertwining dance of time-honored tradition and innovative aspiration.

Crete produces a significant amount of red wine, which distinguishes it from most other islands in Greece. It is also home to a plethora of unique indigenous varieties. Over the past two decades, Cretan winemakers revived once lost cultivars from near extinction. They have also pushed Greek wines forward with greater force than perhaps any other region. 

Lasithi (in Sitia)

The Lasithi zone, part of greater Sitia, occupies the northeastern part of the island. This is one of the oldest wine making areas in Greece (and the world). The red varieties Liatiko and Mandilaria are planted on the lower altitudes, either tho coastal plains or the foothills of Mount Orno. Moving south and gaining altitude, we find the white varieties Vilana and Thrapsathiri. Here, the soils are mostly calcareous and the vines are trained low to the ground in goblets.

Heraklion

The Heraklion prefecture is responsible for the majority of Crete’s wine production. It consists of several important zones: Peza, Archanes, and Dafnes.

Peza

The Peza zone consists of stretches of hilly terrain that rise up to 700 meters (2,300 feet). Peza’s main red varieties are Kotsifali and Mandilaria, which are planted on calcareous soils. But Peza is best regarded for its white wines made from the indigenous Vilana variety. Vilana achieves its apogee at higher altitudes, where it takes more time to ripen, which enhances its aromatic characteristics. Peza is growing fast as a wine region and visitors will see evidence of this in modern viticultural practices and neatly trained rows of vines.

Archanes

The Archanes zone is in the center of Crete, south of the city of Heraklion. The primary red grape varieties are Kotsifali, which is indigenous, and Mandilaria, which originates from its Aegean neighbors. Both wines are full bodied, producing substantial alcohol, aromatics, color, and tannins. Elevations climb up to 400 meters (1,300 feet), and the dense soils are predominated by lime and clay.

Dafnes

To the west of Archanes, the vineyards of Dafnes climb up Mount Idi to 490 meters (1,600 feet). Liatiko is the unique and occasionally misunderstood indigenous red grape that grows here. It ripens very early, usually in July, and it produces a pleasant medium-bodied dry wine, but it shines even more brightly as a sweet fortified wine from sun dried grapes. The soil composition is limestone, gravel, and sand - substantially lighter than its eastern neighbors. One also finds international varieties planted with success. 

Peza

Peza, located in central Crete, is a region dominated by rolling hills and fertile soils. Here, the indigenous white grape, Vilana, reigns supreme. Fresh young expressions offer fragrant floral aromas, balanced acidity, and a gentle touch of minerality, while some expressions enjoy oak treatment and greater depth and complexity.

Together, these subregions and unique local grape varieties form a viticultural mosaic that showcases the dynamic range and potential of Crete's wine production.

Notable Producers

Summary

Through the prism of Crete, we perceive the dynamism of Greek viticulture – an enduring testament to the land’s history and its continuing evolution. Its wines are the distilled essence of the island, a vibrant embodiment of sun, sea, soil, and the spirit of the resilient Cretan vine. The wines of Crete are an exciting chapter in the ongoing story of wine, a chapter that pairs respect for the past with the thrill of the future.

4. Epirus

Epirus in mountainous northwestern Greece produces cooler climate wines from the Debina grape.

Epirus in mountainous northwestern Greece produces cooler climate wines from the Debina grape.

Tucked away in the northwestern corner of Greece, the Epirus region offers a captivating vignette of the country's wine narrative. Nestled amidst rugged mountains, it's a region where the marriage of altitude, diverse terroir, and winemaking tradition yields wines of intriguing complexity.

PDO Zitsa

The Epirus region encompasses two Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) zones: Zitsa and Metsovo. Zitsa, with an average altitude of 650 meters (2,132 feet), is known for its cool climate and limestone-rich soils and is celebrated for the cultivation of the white Debina grape. Wines from this PDO are characterized by their delicate floral and fruity aromas, high acidity, and distinct minerality. They range from crisp, dry whites to sparkling and semi-sparkling wines.

PGI Metsovo

Metsovo, located in the Pindus Mountains, is home to the PDO Metsovo, which produces red wines from the international varieties Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, as well as the indigenous Xinomavro and Vlahiko. High altitude vineyards and diverse soils give these wines pronounced acidity, complex fruit flavors, and substantial aging potential.

PGI Ioannina

Epirus also boasts the Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) of Ioannina, which covers the wider area and includes several native and international grape varieties. Here, one encounters robust reds from Vlahiko and Bekari, and aromatic whites from Debina, amongst others.

Notable Producers

Summary

Winemaking in Epirus often employs traditional techniques, like the use of large old barrels for aging, but there's an increasing trend towards modern methods. Despite its small size, Epirus plays a significant role in the Greek wine scene, showcasing a delicate balance of tradition and modernity, terroir, and innovation.

5. Ionian Islands

Two glasses of Robola perched above a bay in the Ionian Sea

Two glasses of Robola perched above a bay in the Ionian Sea

The Ionian Islands, an emerald chain set against the deep blue Ionian Sea, form an intriguing wine landscape that straddles both Greece's ancient viticultural history and its contemporary wine narrative. The region's distinct climatic and geographical conditions, coupled with a rich mosaic of local and international grape varieties, have given rise to a diverse and compelling array of wine styles.

Cephalonia (Kefalonia)

The most well-known of these islands, Cephalonia, holds two of the region's Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) areas - Robola of Cephalonia and Muscat of Cephalonia. The PDO Robola of Cephalonia is celebrated for its indigenous Robola grape, which, nurtured in the island's high altitude vineyards and limestone-rich soils, produces wines of great freshness, vibrant citrus and apple flavors, silky soft lanolin, and a striking mineral undertone. Robola is a treasure that does not fully reveal its complexity until 3-4 years of aging in the bottle.

The PDO Muscat of Cephalonia, on the other hand, is dedicated to sweet wines produced from the sun-drenched, overripe Muscat grapes, offering a luscious symphony of honeyed apricots, raisins, and exotic spices.

Zakinthos

Neighboring Zakinthos also offers compelling wines under the Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) Zakinthos, where the red Avgoustiatis and white Goustolidi grape varieties thrive. Avgoustiatis yields rich, medium to full-bodied reds brimming with Mediterranean herb aromas, ripe red fruits, and velvety tannins. It is hard to find outside of the Ionian Islands, so people who are familiar with and order this wine demonstrate their deep appreciation for exceptional and rare wines. Goustolidi yields dense, rich white wines with multi-layered warm fruits and mature aromas.

Corfu

Steeped in history, and offering the stunning visual remnants of Venetian rule in the UNESCO World Heritage site of Corfu City, Cofu as a winemaking zone is poised to make a resurgence. The Venetians uprooted most of the old vines to plant olive trees, and today only a handful of commercial wineries are in operation. But Corfu is home to one of the oldest wineries in all of Greece - Theotoky Estate - which produces an exemplary cuvee from the Robola variety. Kakotrygis is the signature indigenous grape, and was mentioned by the ancient historian and Athenian general, Thucydides. but it is almost impossible to find (yet) on the mainland or beyond. Left to macerate for up to two days, it makes a stunning orange wine that complements sour and herbaceous dishes. Families still plant it and enjoy them for themselves, and maybe one day it will make a debut for the rest of the world to enjoy.

Lefkada

Furthermore, the smaller Ionian islands, such as Lefkada, hold their own unique allure. Lefkada, with its mountainous terrain and cool climate, is home to the Vertzami grape, which produces deeply colored reds with a high intensity of aromas, dark fruits like black plums, high tannins, and a balanced acidity.

Notable Producers

Summary

Ionian winemaking is a beautiful blend of traditional practices and modern techniques, with many winemakers increasingly leaning towards organic and sustainable viticulture. From the steep, terraced vineyards to the gentle lowlands, each corner of the Ionian Islands contributes to a viticultural tapestry as diverse as the archipelago itself. In essence, these wines capture the soul of the islands – a dance of sea, sun, soil, and vine that spins a captivating tale in every glass.

6. Macedonia

A couple sitting on a cliff enjoying glasses of sparkling wine from Macedonia

A couple sitting on a cliff enjoying glasses of sparkling wine from Macedonia

The Macedonian wine region, nestled in northern Greece, is a treasure trove of wine diversity that includes international and indigenous cultivars. Its sprawling vineyards stretch from the crystalline Aegean Sea to the towering Pindus Mountains, forming a rich mosaic of microclimates, and terroirs. The region's unique combination of Mediterranean and continental climates, varied topographies, and mineral-rich soils has given rise to an array of wines that are as intriguing as they are pleasurable.

Macedonia boasts four key Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) zones: Naoussa, Goumenissa, Amynteo, and Slopes of Vertiskos. Naoussa, in particular, is one of the most well known and appreciated viticultural zones in Greece.

PDO Naoussa

Naoussa, established in 1971, is a region characterized by its hilly terrain and clay-rich soils. Naoussa is dominated by the indigenous Xinomavro grape, characterized as the noblest of Greek varieties. In fact, this is the home of the largest plantings of Xinomavro, which produces red wines of profound depth, robust tannins, and a remarkable aging potential. It is often compared with Nebbiolos from Barolo and Barbaresco, and Pinot Noirs from Burgundy - similarly complex and elegant, but at a fraction of the price.

PDO Goumenissa

Goumenissa, slightly to the east, was established as a PDO in 1979 and is renowned for its blends of Xinomavro and Negoska, the latter adding a fruity softness to the firm structure of Xinomavro. The resultant wines are full-bodied, with a bouquet of ripe red fruits, exotic spices, and a tantalizingly long finish.

PDO Amynteo

In the high-altitude region of Amynteo (est. 1972), Xinomavro thrives in the sandy soils, producing wines with softer tannins and a fresher, more vibrant fruit profile. Remarkably, Amynteo is also home to Greece's only PDO for rosé wines, crafted primarily from Xinomavro.

Slopes of Meliton

The Slopes of Meliton, established in 1982, the latest addition to Macedonia's PDO areas, are known for their indigenous grape varieties, such as Assyrtiko, Malagousia, and Xinomavro, which exhibit unique characteristics under the cool climate conditions. Slopes of Meliton is also notable for the use of ancient varieties Lemnios and Lemnos (also called Kalambaki locally).

Macedonia also encompasses multiple Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) zones, including PGI Imathia, PGI Pella, and PGI Drama, where a wider array of both indigenous and international grape varieties flourish.

Notable Producers

Summary

Winemaking in Macedonia expertly marries tradition with innovation. While the age-old practice of aging wines in large old oak barrels is still common, many winemakers are now utilizing smaller French oak barrels and experimenting with state-of-the-art winemaking technologies. The resultant wines are not only true to their Macedonian roots but also reflective of the region's dynamic spirit and relentless pursuit of quality and refinement.

7. Peloponnesus (Peloponnese)

The Peloponnesus produces many of Greece's most exciting wines.

The Peloponnesus produces many of Greece's most exciting wines.

Situated in the south of Greece, the Peloponnesus peninsula is a beacon of viticultural diversity, with a history of winemaking that stretches back millennia. Its varied topography - from sun-soaked coastal plains to alpine vineyards - along with its microclimates and diverse soils, create an array of unique terroirs that lend themselves to a vast range of wine styles.

The peninsula encompasses several Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) zones, including Nemea, Mantinia, and Patras. 

PDO Nemea

Nemea was home to the Olympic games and significant Greek history. Nemea is the largest Peleponesian appellation, and it is celebrated for its red wines made from the Agiorgitiko grape. Agiorgitiko (St. George) offers a spectrum of expressions, from lively rosés to full-bodied, age-worthy reds characterized by juicy red fruit flavors, velvety soft tannins, and a complex spice palette.

PDO Mantinia

Mantinia, at higher altitudes, is a PDO synonymous with the aromatic Moschofilero grape, yielding white wines with perfumed floral notes, citrus tones, and a refreshing acidity. 

PDO Patras

Patras, on the northwestern coast, is esteemed for its aromatic white wines from the Roditis and Lagorthi varieties, as well as its celebrated Mavrodaphne, a sweet, fortified wine with a rich tapestry of flavors, from dark fruits and caramel to cocoa and spices.

Several Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) zones also exist within the Peloponnese, such as PGI Achaia, PGI Corinth, and PGI Laconia, broadening the region's viticultural repertoire with an array of both indigenous and international grape varieties.

Notable Producers

Summary

In terms of winemaking, the Peloponnese marries tradition with innovation. While many wineries continue to use traditional practices, such as maturation in large, old oak barrels, there's an increasing trend towards modern techniques, including temperature-controlled fermentations and aging in smaller French oak barrels.

Whether exploring the rich, expressive Agiorgitiko reds of Nemea, the floral, vivacious Moschofilero whites of Mantinia, or the compelling, diverse offerings of the PGI zones, a journey through the wines of the Peloponnese is a sensory exploration of this land’s profound and vibrant wine heritage. 

8. Thessaly

Thessaly is home to PGI Meteora, a UNESCO World Heritage Site

Thessaly is home to PGI Meteora, also a UNESCO World Heritage Site

Nestled in the heart of Greece, the Thessaly’s economy has been traditionally focused on agriculture. More profitable crops tend to occupy the lowlands and vineyards are pushed to the less fertile hills and mountains. In the past 40 years, a younger generation of winemakers have moved to grow Thessaly’s reputation as a region that produces quality wines.

Thessaly is home to two Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) zones: Rapsani and Messenikola. 

PDO Rapsani

The mountainous Rapsani is situated on the southern slopes of Mount Olympus, where the soil is a complex mix of schist, quartz, and iron. The region is celebrated for its red blends, composed of Xinomavro, Krassato, and Stavroto, yielding wines with robust tannins, high acidity, and complex flavors of dark fruits and spices.

PDO Messenikola

Messenikola, lying to the west, is recognized for its red blends of Black Messenikola, a local variant of the Limniona grape, and international varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon. The area's clay-laden soils and mild climate contribute to wines with vibrant red fruit profiles, balanced acidity, and subtle herbaceous undertones.

PGI Wine Regions

Moreover, Thessaly also includes the Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) of Meteora, an area known for its breathtaking, towering rock formations that have earned it designation from UNESCO. The vineyards, scattered around these natural wonders, cultivate an array of grape varieties, including Assyrtiko, Malagousia, and Syrah, each expressing unique characteristics under the region's distinct terroir.

Notable Producers

Summary

Winemaking in Thessaly on the move. Many winemakers still employ age-old practices, such as aging wines in large, old barrels, but there is an increasing trend towards modern winemaking techniques, including temperature-controlled fermentations and maturation in smaller, new oak barrels. Whether you're savoring a hearty Rapsani blend or a fragrant Meteora white, each sip offers a window into the heart and soul of Thessaly's vibrant wine culture.

9. Thrace

Thrace is an ancient wine landscape being rediscovered and transformed.

Thrace, the northeastern wine-growing region of Greece, was strongly linked to the cult of Dionysus since antiquity.Thrace offers a distinctive range of wines that beautifully encapsulate the unique essence of this ancient land. It is a region whose viticultural heritage interweaves with myth and legend, imparting a mystic allure to its wines.

The terroir of Thrace is particularly unique, with the region straddling the transitional zone between the Mediterranean and continental climates. This, coupled with the diversity of its soils - ranging from sandy loam to clay - provides a multi-faceted environment for viticulture.

Thrace is not yet home to any PDO appellations, but it does host several PGI regions.

PGI Avdira

PGI Avdira, nestled close to the coast, is the crowning jewel of Thrace. The PGI primarily focuses on the indigenous white grape, Limnio, which is believed to be one of the oldest continuously cultivated grapes in the world. This grape variety, thriving in the sandy, well-drained soils of Avdira, yields medium-bodied reds with vibrant red fruit characteristics, delicate herbal notes, and a commendable structure.

PGI Ismarikos

Thrace also encompasses the PGI of Ismarikos, which is primarily noted for its robust, full-bodied reds and aromatic, refreshing whites. The region is a melting pot of both indigenous and international grape varieties such as Assyrtiko, Malagousia, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot.

Notable Producers

Summary

In summary, the wines of Thrace are a testament to the region's profound history, its diverse terroir, and the ceaseless passion of its winemakers. From the venerable vines of Limnio to the diverse array of grape varieties thriving under the Thracian sun, each glass of Thrace's wines offers a nuanced reflection of this captivating region's character.

GRAPE VARIETIES

Greece is blessed with an amazing diversity of indigenous grape varieties - over 300 at last count (note that some varieties have different names in different regions). Scientific research and analysis are ongoing to discover more about the known Greek varieties and to analyze “new” cultivars that have resurfaced but may exist only in small, isolated plots. 

International varieties are also successful, and they played an instrumental role in energizing the Greek wine industry when it shifted from mostly domestic consumption to competing in international markets. 

The following list highlights the most well known and likely available Greek and international grape varieties you should look for when shopping or dining.

White Varieties

Indigenous White Varieties

  • DescriptioOriginating from the Aegean Sea region, Aidani (ah-ee-DAH-nee) is often blended with Assyrtiko, but sometimes is produced as its own varietal. On the nose, it offers yellow citrus, minerality, and fresh flowers. Normally it produces a dry wine, but it can be oak aged as a sweet dessert wine.

    Aromas and flavors: citrus, stone fruits, fresh flowers, stoney minerality

    Acidity: medium

    Body & Alcohol: medium body and alcohol

    Aging: drink young, up to 4 years

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  • The king of Santorini, Assyrtiko (ah-SEAR-tee-ko) has done more perhaps than any other indigenous grape to elevate Greek wines to prominence. It is now grown all over Greece. It sells, because it’s truly delicious, and it has adapted well to other soils, aspects, and inclinations. But in its home on parched, volcanic Santorini, the drinker enjoys the zippy acidity, citrus freshness, and the unique salinity that results from Santorini’s stout saline breezes and morning dew. Higher alcohol, due to the heat of the vintage, is perfectly balanced with high acidity, medium plus aroma intensity, and extravagant length. Most Assyrtiko is sold as dry table wine, but it is also used to make the beloved dessert wine Vinsanto.

    Aromas and flavors: citrus (lemon), tree fruit (green and yellow apple), stone fruit (peach, nectarine), chalky minerality, salinity on the finish

    Acidity: high

    Body & Alcohol: full body and high alcohol

    Aging: 1-7 years, but fine examples, including Nykteri (oak aged), can peak after 10+ years

  • DescriProduced for centuries across the Cyclades and Dodecanese islands, Athiri (ah-THEE-ree) is an easy drinking fresh, dry wine.

    Aromas and flavors: fresh citrus (lemons, limes), orange blossom, fresh green apple, fresh peaches

    Acidity: low

    Body & Alcohol: medium

    Aging: drink young, but great expressions up to 4 years

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  • Item desAn almost extinct Cretan variety that has been revived. Dafni (DAHF-nee) has a high intensity of aromas but moderate acidity and alcohol. Crushing wine.

    Aromas and flavors: ripe citrus, tropical fruits (pineapple), Greek herbs and spices

    Acidity: medium

    Body & Alcohol: moderate body, medium alcohol

    Aging: drink young, up to 4 years

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  • A fresh light varietal from PDO Zitsa within the Ioannina prefecture, Debina (deh-BEE-na) is prone to oxygenation. Fortunately, modern winemaking practices ensure it is now more stable and marketable outside of its cool mountainous home in northeastern Greece. It is also used in fresh semi-sparkling wines.

    Aromas and flavors: tree fruit (crisp granny smith apple), fresh pear skin

    Acidity: medium to high

    Body & Alcohol: light to medium body, low alcohol

    Aging: drink young

  • Kidonitsa (kee-though-NEET-za) was almost extinct but has been revived since the mid 2000s. It hails from Laconia in the Peloponessus, producing dry whites as a single varietal, but it is also blended as part of PDO Monemvassia-Malvasia (a new sweet wine).

    Aromas and flavors: citrus, ripe quince (Kidoni in Greek), stone fruit, and crunchy minerality

    Acidity: medium

    Body & Alcohol: medium body, medium alcohol

    Aging: drink young

  • Malagousia (mala-hooz-YAH) is another thought-to-be extinct grape variety that has exploded in popularity in the past 20 years. It is now grown across Greece, though it shines as part of PDO Rhodes. It is used for dry table wines and sweet wines from late harvest grapes.

    Aromas and flavors: warm stone fruits, tropical fruits, herbs, spices, vegetables (bell pepper), and white and yellow flowers

    Acidity: medium to high

    Body & Alcohol: medium to full bodied; medium alcohol

    Aging: drink up to 4 years for dry wines; sweet wines require 4 to 7 years to fully integrate.

  • Originally from Crete but owes its name to the port of Monemvasia in Laconia (southeastern Peloponnesus). Monemvasia (mo-nem-vaz-YA) or Malvasia (mal-va-ZEE-ya) is now cultivated mainly on the Cycladic island of Paros, where it is authorized in three PDO appellations. It is also prolific throughout the Mediterranean and it is the main grape used for sweet Madeira wine). Monemvasia’s low acidity makes it prone to oxygenation, which modern winemaking practices have overcome.

    Aromas and flavors: citrus, stone fruits, tree fruits, spices

    Acidity: medium-minus to medium

    Body & Alcohol: medium to full body, low to moderate alcohol

    Aging: drink young

  • Mistaken as Ribolla Gialla from Italy, which is excusable given Venetian rule over the Ionian islands, Robola (row-BO-la) is a stunning Greek variety that offers complexity and sophistication. It is the star of PDO Kefalonia wines, but it is also cultivated in Central Greece. Given a few years of bottle aging as the acidity softens, this wine matures into a beautiful, complex accompaniment to finely prepared cuisine.

    Aromas and flavors: citrus (ripe lemons), tree fruits (warm pears), minerality (crushed rocks), and wet lanolin (think Chenin Blanc)

    Acidity: high

    Body & Alcohol: medium body, moderate alcohol

    Aging: 3-4 years in bottle

  • Savatiano (sa-va-teeya-NO) is the legendary core of traditional Greek wine Retsina (flavored with Aleppo pine resin, as in ancient times). This has been unfortunate for Savatiano’s reputation, but contemporary vintners are now fermenting it at lower temperatures, using more expressive clones, and reviving this grape into varietal wines that are both delicious and expressive. Don’t be afraid. Try it from a good producer. You will be pleasantly surprised.

    Aromas and flavors: stone fruit, tree fruit, tropical fruit, minerality

    Acidity: medium

    Body & Alcohol: medium body, moderate alcohol

    Aging: drink young, but finer examples can age for 4 and up to 7

  • Vidiano (vee-thee-ah-NO) is one of the most widely grown white grapes on Crete, but it is mainly used as a blending partner with Vilana. Many believe in its potential as a single varietal wine, but it responds poorly to high yields and it remains a work in progress. Keep an eye out for this one, as many are optimistic that with time Vidiano will come into its own.

    Aromas and flavors: stone fruit, tropical, flowers, minerality, oak

    Acidity: medium

    Body & Alcohol: medium to full body; medium to high alcohol

    Aging: 3-4 years

  • Vilana (vee-la-na) dominates white wine production on Crete. The majority of its production is for fresh and youthful dry wines, but some producers are experimenting with oak treatment and aging. The wine’s appearance is deep yellow, its aroma intensity is moderate, and it’s an easy drinking wine for hot weather.

    Aromas and flavors: citrus, stone fruit, tree fruit (pear), flowers (jasmine), herbs, spices, and minerality

    Acidity: medium to high

    Body & Alcohol: light to medium body, moderate alcohol

    Aging: drink young

International White Varieties

  • This classic Burgundian grape variety arrived in Greece in the mid-1960s. Greek chardonnays are often blended among wines that were fermented in stainless steel and oak, which mutes the heavy hand of oak and retains freshness. Moreover, many chardonnay plantings are at altitude, resulting in fresher wines. When new oak is used, it enhances the vanilla, toast, coconut, and nut flavors.

  • Originally from North Africa, Muscat of Alexandria is grown extensively in northern Greece, but it shines on the volcanic soils of Lemnos island. On Lemnos it is used in dry wines (PDO Lemnos) and sweet wines (PDO Muscat of Lemnos). Its moderate aromatic intensity complements a range of dishes, including seafood and light meats.

    Aromas and flavors: citrus, tree fruits (apricots), flowers (roses), herbs (mint)

    Acidity: medium

    Body & Alcohol: medium body, moderate alcohol

    Aging: drink young for dry wines; up to 7 years for sweet wines

  • This Rhone variety makes up a small portion of Greek wines, but it is popular among local and visiting consumers. Viognier is also mixed with Syrah in some blends. Effort is made not to mask the rich texture and intense warm fruit aromas of Viognier. To ensure full alcoholic and aroma ripeness, most plantings are at altitude to ensure a later harvest.

  • This small-berried Muscat (mosh-KAH-to) thrives in sun and heat, making it a perfect match for many Greek terroirs. In fact White Muscat is used in multiple PDO wines, particularly sweet wines that have received significant international recognition (Samos, Rhodes, Rio Patras, Cephalonia). These wines have a high intensity of aromas, rich mouthfeel, and pleasant acidity.

    Aromas and flavors: citrus, stone fruits (peach), tree fruits, tropical fruits, flowers (roses), and Greek herbs

    Acidity: medium to high

    Body & Alcohol: light to medium body; moderate to moderate-plus alcohol

    Aging: for dry wines, drink young; for sweet wines, cellar 10+ years

  • This Loire Valley variety made its way to Macedonia a few decades ago. Sauvignon Blanc has seen its greatest success in a blend with Assyrtiko. Both high acid wines, Sauvignon Blanc contributes herbaceousness and high aromatics while Assyrtiko provides richness and body. Some producers make a single varietal that is oak aged, creating a fuller mouth feel than traditional French examples.

Pink Varieties

Indigenous Pink Varieties

  • Moschofilero (mosh-ko-FEE-le-ro) is magic in a glass - bright fruity aromas, tart, crisp acidity, classic on its own or paired with a myriad of appetizers or main courses, from fish to meat. It is the white grape signature of the Peloponnesus and the backbone of PDO Mantinia. It has a pink skin, and while the majority of production is white wine, the number of delicious rosé wines grows each year.

    Aromas and flavors: citrus, stone fruits, tree fruits, flowers, and minerality

    Acidity: high

    Body & Alcohol: light to medium body; moderate alcohol

    Aging: for dry wines, drink young up to 4 years

  • Roditis (ro-DEE-teez) is the most planted white wine variety in Greece. It comes to your glass with a damaged reputation, as in the past it has been used to produce very modest, flabby, simple wines. But given the right viticultural practices - higher elevation, proper training, and careful pruning to reduce vine vigor - as well as carefully monitored lees aging in the winery, Roditis can impress even the most sophisticated drinker.

    Aromas and flavors: citrus, tree fruits, tropical fruits, minerality

    Acidity: medium to high

    Body & Alcohol: medium body; moderate alcohol

    Aging: drink young up to 4 years

  • Sideritis (see-der-EE-teez) is cultivated in the Peloponnesus with minor plantings in Attica and Evia. It is a drought-resilient grape with tough skins that is often blended with Roditis. On its own, it produces a crip, fruity, and spicy white wine that is very pleasing with local cuisine.

    Aromas and flavors: citrus, stone fruits, tree fruits, spices, and flowers

    Acidity: high

    Body & Alcohol: medium body; moderate alcohol

    Aging: drink young up to 4 years

Red Varieties

Indigenous Red Varieties

  • Agiorgitiko (ah-your-HEE-tee-ko) (translates as: St. George) is an elegant, fruit forward red variety from the Peloponnesus. It is capable of producing many different styles, from dry red, to rosé, to sweet wines. Agiorgitiko is the grape of PDO Nemea, which has received a strong international following. It excels with short and long oak treatment, becoming even more complex and balanced with age.

    Appearance: medium to deep ruby intensity

    Aromas and flavors: red fruits, spices, oak

    Sweetness: dry to sweet

    Acidity: medium to high

    Tannin: medium to high

    Body & Alcohol: medium to full body; moderate alcohol

    Aging: drink young, up to 4 years for light oak treatment, and 10+ years for longer oak treatment

  • Kotsifali (kot-zee-FAH-lee) is an important red variety in Crete. It produces wines that are pale in color but with intense aromatics and soft tannins. Kotsifali is often blended with other grapes, especially Mandilaria.

    Appearance: light ruby

    Aromas and flavors: red fruits, black fruits, spices, red flowers

    Sweetness: dry

    Acidity: medium

    Tannin: low

    Body & Alcohol: medium body; medium-plus alcohol

    Aging: drink young up to 4 years

  • Liatiko (lee-AH-tee-ko) is planted throughout Crete and contributes to several PDO appellations. It is used to produce both dry and sweet wines. The dry wines are paler in color but are full and rich on the pallet. The sweet wines, made from sun-dried grapes, are the most celebrated and appeal to people who prefer a less alcoholic dessert wine.

    Appearance: light garnet

    Aromas and flavors: red fruits, herbs, spices, leather

    Sweetness: dry or sweet

    Acidity: medium

    Tannin: low

    Body & Alcohol: medium body; medium alcohol

    Aging: drink young; oak aged wines and sweet wines can cellar for 10+ years

  • Limnio (LEEM-nyo) is an ancient Greek variety that was praised by Homer, Hessiod, and Polydefkis. It originates from the island of Lemnos, but most of its plantings today are in northern Greece, specifically in Macedonia’s Halkidiki peninsula. As a single varietal, it produces light red wines that are a pleasure to drink. When blended, it is often with international varieties and oak aged for greater depth, complexity, and interest.

    Appearance: medium ruby

    Aromas and flavors: red fruits, herbs, vegetal, and floral

    Sweetness: dry

    Acidity: medium

    Tannin: medium

    Body & Alcohol: medium body; medium alcohol

    Aging: drink young up to 4 years

  • Limniona (leem-nyo-NAH) is another grape spared from extinction and carefully nurtured by scientists, growers, and producers to become a rising star in Greek wines. It has a deep purple color and expresses bright red fruits, herbs, and cooking spices. It is planted across Greece today, but its origin is believed to be in Thessalia.

    Appearance: purple, medium intensity

    Aromas and flavors: red fruits, herbs, vegetal, and mineral

    Sweetness: dry

    Acidity: medium

    Tannin: medium

    Body & Alcohol: medium body; medium to medium-plus alcohol

    Aging: drink 5-7 years

  • Mandelaria (man-dee-lar-YA) is the darkest of red varieties in Greece. Single varietal wines are rare, as Mandilaria is often blended with other grape varieties to bolster their richness and color. Most plantings are in the Aegean Islands and Crete, where it is blended with Kotsifali.

    Appearance: purple, deep intensity

    Aromas and flavors: black fruit, vegetal, leather

    Sweetness: dry

    Acidity: medium to high

    Tannin: high

    Body & Alcohol: medium body; medium-plus alcohol

    Aging: drink 3-4 years

  • Mavrodaphne (mav-ro-daf-NEE) is most famous for making a sweet dessert wine, both in Patras (PDO Mavrodaphne of Patra) and Kefalonia (PDO Mavrodaphne of Cephalonia). It has an inky dark color and flavors of dried prunes and sultanas. In recent years, winemakers are testing the waters with dry table wine, which some equate to Amarone from the Valpolicella.

    Appearance: purple, deep intensity

    Aromas and flavors: black fruit, herbs, vegetal, leather, minerality

    Sweetness: sweet dessert, some dry

    Acidity: medium

    Tannin: medium to high

    Body & Alcohol: medium to full body; medium-plus to high alcohol

    Aging: potentially 10+ years

  • Mavrotragano (mav-ro-TRA-ga-no) hails from Santorini and, as the story so often goes, was almost extinct. The last few vines were located and researchers, scientists, and winemakers have been tinkering to develop Mavrotragano into a widely popular variety. For now, it is planted on Santorini, where it was traditionally a blending grape for Vinsanto. It offers delicious flavors of red fruit, flowery coffee, and smoke.

    Appearance: ruby, deep intensity

    Aromas and flavors: black fruit, spice, flowers, leather, minerality, and oak

    Sweetness: dry

    Acidity: medium

    Tannin: high

    Body & Alcohol: full body; medium-plus alcohol

    Aging: potentially 10+ years

  • Vlahiko (vlah-HEE-ko) hails from mountainous northwestern Greece (Epirus). Vlahiko is light ruby in color and delivers red fruit and herbs on the palate. Planted at altitude and challenged by a cool and wet climate, it is often blended with Bakari for more pigment and body. Although it is a light skinned grape, it has shown benefits from oak aging and cellaring.

    Appearance: light ruby

    Aromas and flavors: black fruit, herbs, spices, minerality

    Sweetness: dry

    Acidity: medium to high

    Tannin: low to medium

    Body & Alcohol: light body; medium alcohol

    Aging: potentially 5-7 years

  • Xinomavro (ksee-NO-mav-ro) is currently the king of red Greek grape varieties It is used to produce rosés, sparkling wines, and quirky sweet wines, but it is legendary as a dry red table wine. It is planted all over northern Greece and it forms the basis of several PDOs in Macedonia, most famously in PDO Naoussa and PDO Amynteo. It is not an easy grape to grow, much like Pinot Noir and Nebbiolo, so it comes as no surprise that experts from Burgundy and Piedmonte were invited to help cultivate and process this magical grape. Like those classic varieties, Xinomavro is incredibly complex, intriguing, and age-worthy. Its acidity, power, and depth make it an amazing compliment to rich cuisine, red meats, pastas, and cheeses.

    Appearance: pale to medium intensity ruby

    Aromas and flavors: red fruit, spices, vegetal, floral, mineral, oaky

    Sweetness: dry

    Acidity: high

    Tannin: high

    Body & Alcohol: light body; medium alcohol

    Aging: 10+ years, and decades for good vintages

International Red Varieties

  • Cabernet arrived in Greece in the 1960s. Since it is susceptible to drought and other diseases, it excels at altitude. Many Greek vintners use it to add structure and power to blends. As a single varietal, Greek Cabernet Sauvignon provides typical Old World flavors that are earthy, vegetal, mineral, and with substantial tannins and acidity.

  • Another Bordelais blender, Merlot provides roundness and fleshiness in Greek blends. Merlot is often blended with Xinomavro to produce a wine that can be enjoyed earlier in its life. Tannins are toned down and more dark fruit flavors complement the red fruits of its Greek partner.

  • This Rhone varietal tends to excel in Greece’s warm climate, and in that way it can be compared to New World expressions of Syrah/Shiraz. Higher alcohol, powerful tannins, deep black fruits, spices, and medium acidity are hallmarks.

WINE LAW & APPELLATIONS

As a member of the European Union (EU), Greece follows European wine law regarding Protected Designation of Origin (PDO)  and Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) rules. From the Commission: “The EU geographical indications system protects the names of products that originate from specific regions and have specific qualities or enjoy a reputation linked to the production territory. The differences between PDO and PGI are linked primarily to how much of the product’s raw materials must come from the area, or how much of the production process has to take place within the specific region.” 

In short, PDO wines follow stricter rules than PGI wines. PDO wines have stronger links to their place of origin, whereas PGI wines may permit the introduction of outside processes. For example, all production of a PDO wine must occur within the zone, including bottling. But in a PGI appellation, some processes may occur in other regions (e.g., aging or bottling).

An interactive map to Greek wine regions, PDO and PGI appellations, and recommended producers.

PDO Wines

Greece has 33 PDO appellations. The following are the PDO rules:

  • 100% of the grapes must originate exclusively from the geographical area where the wine is made;

  • The PDO label is optional for wine (but mandatory for other food products).

PDO Appellations*:

Aegean Islands

Crete

Epirus

Ionian Islands

Macedonia

Peloponnese

Thessaly

*Source: www.winesofgreece.org 

PGI Wines

The following are the rules for PGI wines:

  • At least one of the stages of production, processing or preparation takes place in the region. 

  • For wine, at least 85% of the grapes used have to come exclusively from the geographical area where the wine is actually made.

PGI Appellations*:

Aegean Sea Islands

Central Greece

Crete

Epirus

Ionian Islands

Macedonia

Peloponnese

Thessaly

Thrace


*Source: www.winesofgreece.org 

GREEK PRODUCERS WORTH KNOWING

Greece is currently home to over 180,000 growers, 1,200 wineries, and 64,000 hectares (158,000 acres) of land under vine. These numbers are growing annually, which is encouraging. The future of Greek wine is bright. 

Eat Drink Fun recommends the following producers, most of which export to major markets in North America and Europe.

PAIRING GREEK WINE AND FOOD

Greek wines are hidden gems of the wine world, with their unique character and wide range of styles. Equally impressive is their ability to pair beautifully with a wide variety of dishes, both Greek and international. In the exploration of wine and food pairing, there are two key approaches to consider: matching, where similar flavors and textures are paired together, and contrasting, where opposite elements are used to balance and highlight one another.

The recommendations below are just a beginning. Greek wines are extremely food friendly. While we developed these recommendations independently, the Wines of Greece provides an excellent online pairing wizard in which you can select your dish and it recommends complementary wines.

Table setting overlooking the caldera in Santorini

Appetizers

Tzatziki with Assyrtiko: 

The high acidity and minerality of Assyrtiko from Santorini pairs beautifully with the tangy Greek yogurt and cucumber dip, creating a harmonious match.

Spanakopita with Moschofilero: 

Moschofilero’s floral aromas and crisp acidity contrast with the richness of this spinach and feta pie, providing a fresh and balanced taste.

Dolmades with Roditis: 

The lemony notes of Roditis complement the citrus undertones of these grape leaf-wrapped rice parcels, emphasizing the savoriness of the dish.

Salads

A Greek salad that pairs perfectly with its local wines

A Greek salad that pairs perfectly with its local wines.

Greek Salad with Vidiano: 

Vidiano, with its medium body and hints of ripe fruits, is a perfect match for a traditional Greek salad, matching the texture of feta cheese and contrasting the fresh vegetables.

Caesar Salad with Malagousia: 

The aromatic Malagousia, with its hint of spice, pairs well with a Caesar salad. The wine's acidity and body contrast nicely with the creamy dressing, while its spiciness matches the savory croutons.

Caprese Salad with Vilana: 

The light, fresh, and fruity Vilana balances the rich mozzarella and contrasts the tangy tomatoes in a Caprese salad, creating a balanced and delightful pairing.

Main Courses

Homemade moussaka - perfect with Agiorgitiko

Homemade moussaka - perfect with Agiorgitiko.

Moussaka with Agiorgitiko: 

Agiorgitiko’s medium tannins and ripe fruit flavors balance the savory lamb and creamy béchamel sauce in moussaka, making for a hearty and satisfying combination.

Grilled Chicken with Robola: 

The high acidity and citrus flavors of Robola from Cephalonia contrast beautifully with the charred flavors of grilled chicken, cutting through its richness.

Vegetable Curry with Savatiano: 

The aromatic and slightly off-dry Savatiano complements the spices in a vegetable curry, while its slight sweetness balances the heat.

Seafood Dishes

Grilled Octopus with Santorini Assyrtiko: 

Grilled octopus with Assyrtiko.

The bracing acidity and mineral character of Assyrtiko matches the smoky and savory character of grilled octopus, creating a balanced and harmonious pairing.

Grilled Sardines with Robola: 

Shrimp scampi with rich, complex Robola.

Robola’s vibrant acidity and citrus notes cut through the richness of the olive oil in grilled sardines, providing a refreshing contrast.

Fried Shrimp with Moschofilero: 

Floral Moschofilero with sweet and savory fried shrimp.

The wine's crisp acidity and light body provide a refreshing counterpoint to the dish's fried richness, while its subtle floral notes enhance the shrimp’s sweet, delicate flavor.

Pasta Dishes

Spaghetti Carbonara with Vidiano: 

The medium-bodied Vidiano, with its ripe fruit flavors, matches the creamy sauce of carbonara, while its acidity cuts through the richness.

Seafood Pasta in Red Sauce with Xinomavro: 

Seafood pasta with Xinomavro.

Xinomavro’s high acidity and robust tannins stand up to the savory red seafood sauce, while its herbal notes complement the tomato base.

Pesto Pasta with Vilana: 

The fresh and fruity Vilana contrasts with the rich, nutty flavors of pesto sauce, while its acidity keeps the palate refreshed.

Meat Dishes

Grilled lamb chops with juicy, fruit forward Agiorgitiko.

Grilled lamb chops with juicy, fruit forward Agiorgitiko.

Grilled Lamb Chops with Agiorgitiko: 

The ripe, dark fruit flavors and medium tannins of Agiorgitiko match the charred, savory flavors of lamb chops, resulting in a robust and flavorful combination.

Crispy, roasted pork

Decadent, crispy, roasted pork with luxurious and opulent Xinomavro.

Crispy Roasted Pork with Xinomavro: 

Xinomavro, with its high acidity and firm tannins, contrasts the fatty richness of expertly roasted pork, while its dark fruit flavors complement the meat's savory taste.

Beef Stew with Kotsifali: 

The ripe red fruits and medium body of Kotsifali from Crete match the rich flavors of a beef stew, while its spice notes enhance the dish's hearty character.

Desserts

Baklava with Mavrodaphne: 

The sweet, fortified Mavrodaphne wine from Patras matches the honeyed sweetness of baklava, while its dark fruit flavors contrast the pastry's nuttiness.

Lemon Cake with Muscat of Samos: 

The intense citrusy and floral aromas of Samos Muscat echo the zesty flavors of a lemon cake, providing an incredibly refreshing pairing.

Chocolate Mousse with Vinsanto (Sun-dried) Assyrtiko: 

Vinsanto with chocolate mousse at sunset.

Vinsanto with chocolate mousse at sunset.

Vinsanto’s deep sweetness, richness, and underlying acidity contrast the dense chocolate, while the wine's dried fruit flavors complement the mousse.

Greek wines, with their distinct flavors and versatility, can beautifully elevate a multitude of dishes, making every meal a delightful gastronomic adventure.

X. Conclusion

In the amphitheater of global viticulture, Greek wines hold an esteemed and distinct position. The diversity of Greece's terrain, from mountainous highlands to sun-kissed islands, provides a vast spectrum of microclimates and soils, creating a mosaic of unique terroirs. The myriad of indigenous grape varieties, many of which are little known beyond Greece's borders, further contribute to this rich tapestry of flavors and styles.

From the bracing minerality of Santorini's Assyrtiko to the rich complexity of Naoussa's Xinomavro, Greek wines echo the landscape and climate of their origins, embodying a profound sense of place. The preservation of these indigenous grapes not only underlines Greece's rich viticultural heritage but also reinforces its individuality on the global wine stage.

Over the last four decades, Greek winemaking has undergone a transformation akin to a renaissance. Since the 1980s, there has been a concerted effort to modernize viticulture and winemaking practices, focusing on quality over quantity. The results have been remarkable, with Greek wines now celebrated for their fine wine expressions. These wines not only stand alongside their international counterparts but also distinguish themselves through their distinctive character and authenticity.

In this new era of wine, Greek vintners are not resting on their laurels. Instead, they are passionately exploring their viticultural potential, pushing boundaries, and innovating, all while respecting tradition and indigenous varieties. This passion, coupled with the dynamism of Greek winemaking, ensures that there is much more to look forward to in the future.

As the curtain falls on our journey through Greek wines, the invitation is extended to you, dear reader. Seek out Greek wines in your local wine shop or restaurant, savor their individuality, and embrace their diversity. If your travels bring you near Athens, we at Eat Drink Fun invite you to explore our tastings and tours via Custom Adventures, offering unparalleled opportunities to dive into Greek viticulture and gastronomy. Our wine experiences are designed to enlighten, engage, and most importantly, enjoy the rich world of Greek wines. So, raise a glass of Greek wine and celebrate its enduring history and exciting future. Yamas! (Cheers!)

Kris MILLER
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